Todos Santos Cuchumatán – Daniele Volpe

The days before the celebrations, the tailors work late to deliver new clothes to the people of Todos Santos Cuchumatán that premiered on November 1. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
The days before the celebrations, the tailors work late to deliver new clothes to the people of Todos Santos Cuchumatán that premiered on November 1. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Gloria Mendoza, 18, elected princess of Todos Santos Cuchumatán, prepares for the party. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
The day before the celebration, some young people are cut off the hair to appear well the feast day. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
The Mendoza family organized a team for the race, offering lunch to those who support them. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Drunk man in the middle of the party at Mendoza's home. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
A horseman does a traditional dance at Mendoza's home. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Some horsemen do a traditional dance at Mendoza's home. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Elderly converse in the central park of Todos Santos Cuchumatán opposite bottom of a street photographer. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
The party at the village of "El Rancho". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Some horsemen do a traditional dance at the village of "El Rancho". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
In the party at Mendoza's home. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Some horsemen do a traditional dance at at the village of "El Rancho". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
A man looks the party at the village of "El Rancho" with the racehorses behind. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Drunks men in the early morning at the Mendoza's home. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Horsemen ready to race. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
People wait see the race. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
In the race. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Drunk horsemen take a break. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Horseman ready to race while a drunk man take a break. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
During the race. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
During the race. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Men at a canteen. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Drunk men at a canteen. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Young men meets in the Todos Santos Cuchumatán's streets. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Drunks men fight outside of a canteen. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Drunk men at a canteen. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Drunks men in the Todos Santos Cuchumatán's streets. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Men at a canteen. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
Men at a canteens. Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
In the Todos Santos Cuchumatán's cementary during the "Day of the Death". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
In the Todos Santos Cuchumatán's cementary during the "Day of the Death". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
In the Todos Santos Cuchumatán's cementary during the "Day of the Death". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
In the Todos Santos Cuchumatán's cementary during the "Day of the Death". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe
In the Todos Santos Cuchumatán's cementary during the "Day of the Death". Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small town located in the western highlands of Guatemala. The native population are ethnic Maya Mam. A third of its population has migrated to the U.S., mostly illegally, undocumented. Every year, on November 1, is celebrated an ancient tradition: a horse race that has no winners and losers. The days before and after that date are celebrating. Dances, alcohol and meals. /© Daniele Volpe

Todos Santos Cuchumatán is a small village located on the western highland of Guatemala on the Cuchumatanes Mountains, at an altitude of 2500m, near to the Mexican border. The native population is of Mayan Mam, which is one of the 21 officially recognised ethnic groups in the Country. Thanks to a low level of mestizaje the entire population still speak their original Mayan language and it’s one of the few places in Guatemala where even the men still wear the traditional clothes.

Currently approximately a third of the population, majority men, has immigrated to the USA, most of them without immigrations papers. The emigration has strongly influences their habits. The Todosanteros that had some relation with el norte try to talk to the foreign in English, they wear cowboy hat instead of the traditional one, they have modified the design of the traditional outfit as well of showing their admiration by reproducing the USA icons on any possible space (flags, eagles etc. on the tombstones, houses, cars and clothes). The most important celebration is the town fair, which is celebrated every year on the 1st of November, the day of “Todos los Santos”(All Saints Day) it’s the evidence of the mix between the Pre-Colombian cultural legacy and the colonial imposition.

The main event of this fair is a horse race, which takes place during all the day on a segment of 400m track, back and forward. The race doesn’t have winners or losers and symbolized the resistance and the individual challenge. It’s been many years that people who can afford these expenses are receiving remittances. The 2^nd on November to celebrate the Day of the Dead the families visit the cemetery and like an extension of the party they bring music, food, drinks and offering to their dead on top of the tombstone decorated with USA’s symbols. The importance of the remittances goes beyond the mere survival, keeps alive the tradition and strengthens, day after day, the adoration for el norte.